Nise en Scène

May 16

8 Ways to Enjoy Jamaica

A Caribbean getaway, our first foray onto the South American continent, many teary farewells, a cosy New Year’s party in Manhattan, our big move back to Asia, re-joining the corporate workforce… and a new exciting – HUGE – project that is now underway.

That sums up our last five months or so in a nutshell. It’s been a whirlwind – thus the radio silence – but we’re grateful for everything that has happened. What an end to 2011, and a momentous kick-off to the new (ok, by now not-so-new) year!

We have no major vacays in the pipelines, but I’m not planning to cease last year’s overarching theme of wanderlust.

And I can’t think of a better destination to get the cogs turning again than spirited Jamaica, which we visited late last year.

Initially, it was difficult to shake off the mental image of a shady, crime-filled city, with people lurking at corners trying to sell you ganja or assaulting the hapless at knifepoint. After all, it was consistently rated as a country with one of the highest murder rates in the world.

But there was something extremely alluring about its beauty, sunshine and sea, and most importantly the people. Nowhere else in the Caribbean is the African vibe so predominant. Beyond idyllic sights of swaying palm trees and powder-white sand – some other Caribbean destinations might offer even more in this respect – we wanted to soak in the culture of the people, and there was lots of it, with some spunk and attitude thrown in as well.

So we took precaution, exercised loads of common sense, and were determined to scratch beneath the surface.

Here were some of our favourite activities in Jamaica.

1. Go Cliff Diving

There’s something inspiring about watching lithe and supple Jamaicans scale rocky cliffs and dive dramatically into the crystal-clear waters below.

You’ll feel geared up to try it, or in my case, goad the husband to do it.

A good place to try this is by the famous Rick’s Cafe, also a great place to watch the sunset. Beginners can try mounting lower levels before incrementally demonstrating more bravado.

Note there will be stuntmen touters who expect a tip from their ‘audience’, but you’ll get used to it after a while.

2. Be a Beach Bum, Soak in Reggae at Negril

If you’ve been longing to lounge around on powder-white sand and frolic in the turquoise Caribbean sea, Negril is the place to be.

There are plenty of beach-side bars and cafes to pop into, many blasting Bob Marley music so you can soak up the reggae atmosphere and bob your head to the beat. In or out of the water.

Much of the seven-mile beach hardly offers respite from the tourist hustle and bustle, but some will enjoy the fun and vibrancy of the place. If you’re looking for some peace and quiet, take a romantic stroll down to the south-westernmost tip where there are usually more Jamaicans than tourists.

3. Ride a Horse into the Sea

It is the dream of many to ride a horse by the pristine shoreline fringed by gently lapping waves. Honeymooners in particular will find this very romantic.

In Jamaica (and many Caribbean destinations) you can go horse-back riding through lush plantations, by the beach and if you’re up to it, right into the sea.

4. Visit the Coolest Bar in the World

It’s called the Pelican Bar, opened by fisherman Floyde Forbes. And no, I didn’t bestow on it the ‘coolest bar’ accolade; The Guardian (no less) did it.

To get there, you take a rickety old boat from the beach. And just as you’re wondering where you headed – without a lifevest – you heave a sigh of relief as you spot a wooden shack built on stilts on a sandbank in the middle of the sea.

Pelicans fly around those stilts and, if you’re fortunate as some were just hours before we arrived, see dolphins playing in the distance.

Here, you can chill out over a Red Stripe beer and music, and when hunger sets in order a freshly-caught fried fish or diced lobster over rice.

No frills at all – it’s all very rustic.

5. Eat Jerk Chicken

Jerk is a native Jamaican style of cooking where a hot spice rub – including pimento and Scotch bonnet peppers – is applied over meat that is grilled over hardwood charcoal.

We really liked the flavoursome and juicy jerk chicken served at Scotchies along the north coast, famed for dishing out authentic jerk dishes.

Absolutely delicious!

6. See Wild Crocodiles in Black River

Come face to face with wild crocodiles on a safari tour along Black River, Jamaica’s longest navigable river and largest wetland area.

Sightings of endangered saltwater crocodiles are frequent, and we saw two on our trip. It was somewhat thrilling to have these wild creatures gliding towards your boat as the guide made cawing noises to attract them.

7. Get Drunk on Rum

Okay, not necessarily drunk… but that surely got your attention?

Given that the Caribbean is somewhat the epicenter of the world’s rum production, visiting a rum estate is pretty worth it.

In Jamaica, visit the Appleton estate and witness the distillation process of rum.

Of course, the favourite part for most people is the rum sampling of 16 whole varieties of rum (try the rum cream!), and buy bottles at a supposedly good rates at the gift shop.

8. Get to Know the Locals (FAVE!)

If you’re still reading this article, congrats for coming to my absolute favourite part of the trip – going beneath the touristy surface and making a point to interact with the locals.

We wanted to avoid being herded around in tourist buses, and had hired a local driver to take us around each day based on our interests. This was a great decision, because it freed us from stresses of driving in road conditions that were more, well, foolhardy than we were used to, while allowing us the freedom of exploring at our own pace. Our guide also acted as some form of security as people saw we were accompanied by a local at all times.

F-3Ingle-Shop

We were blessed to have established a great rapport with our driver.

When we shared our interest to see how the locals really lived, he took us on our third day to his neighbourhood where we ate with his family and neighbours, played ball with kids, entered little provision shops attached to homes and visited the local markets – hardly an itinerary travellers ask for, he said.

F-Ingle-LeonHouseBoys

This was hands-down the best part of our trip.

From our interactions, Jamaicans can be so aggressively forthright and blatantly opinionated… but they can be awesomely laid back, passionate and kind all at the same time.

Really, you can like Jamaica for its beauty, reggae, sun, sand and sea… but above all, we loved it for its spirit!

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Dec 12

8 Comments

Freshly Pressed!

I was watching catch-up TV and shaking my head in disbelief when Afro Blue – only the most talented group – got sent off The Sing-Off.

It’s not like all that vigorous head-shaking will change the outcome, my husband observed, a tad concerned for my neck.

I threatened a boycott of the show. (It didn’t happen.)

Just then, my iPhone buzzed. I saw three email notifications of comments on my blog.

Then the gadget buzzed again. And again. And suddenly there was a flood of 80 messages.

It later dawned on me that Nise en Scène had been freshly pressed – aka featured as one of 11 select posts on the WordPress homepage.

Thanks to the over 170 people who commented on the post. And a special shout-out to the loads more who read, liked or linked the post, and/or are now following the blog.

While I haven’t had time to reply to all, I have enjoyed reading every comment and am humbled by your encouraging words.

Oh, and for the record, I did continue watching another episode of The Sing-Off that afternoon. And the entire season that month.

And it was very tempting to keep refreshing my emails that day, but my husband successfully dragged me away from my Macbook and we had a lovely Thanksgiving dinner.

Once again, thank you all!

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Nov 27

23 Comments

5 Reasons to Fall for Maine

It’s easy to see why Maine is dubbed the ‘Vacation State’.

It offers breathtaking scenery, outdoor activities and quaint architecture that transposes you into a world of relaxation.

Its culinary delights are definitely worth mentioning, evident from the flourishing farmer’s markets, famed seafood industry, and increasing number of culinary extraordinaires.

Lest I wax lyrical for hours, let me keep it concise. Here are my top five quintessentially Maine experiences!

1. Spectacular Fall Foliage

Maine is marketed as an all-season destination, but in my opinion it’s in fall that it really dazzles.

Nature is a flamboyant exhibitionist during fall in the otherwise low-key New England state.

There’s something wonderful about the crisp air and brilliantly-coloured maples against the backdrop of jagged coastlines and pristine highlands.

The vivid colours of scarlet, orange and yellow appear as early as mid-September in the north, and as late as end-October in the south. This year, the peak of fall was at least a week late when we visited but the hues were still a breathtaking sight!

Some hotels charge a fall surcharge of more than $10. But the canopy of colours form a sight that may be worth paying for.

And you know it’s practically a commodity when there are foliage websites and hotlines for visitors to track the changing hues.

2. Romantic Lighthouses along Coast

Over 60 historical lighthouses dot the rocky coast of Maine.

These lighthouses were built since 1974 as beacons of light for ships to navigate complicated peninsulas of the Maine coast.

With the advent of GPS technology, lighthouses don’t carry the same burden today.

Nonetheless, they still embody the nostalgia and mission of yesteryears.

If you are driving north from Portland towards Bar Harbor, be sure to stop by some lighthouses along the way, such as the above-pictured Portland Head Lighthouse at Cape Elizabeth.

3. First to Witness Sunrise in USA

Go to Cadillac Mountain before the break of dawn in fall and winter, and declare yourself as first in the USA to view sunrise that day.

Cadillac Mountain is situated within Acadia National Park – a must-see in Maine – and hosts the highest point of the North Atlantic Seaboard.

Or if you’re dorky like us, go at sunset too and take some awesome silhouette pictures.

Fellow travellers saw what we were doing and asked for help to capture their silhouette moments too, as pictured here!

4. Lobsters Feasts

There’s more to fall than foliage – it’s also prime season for lobsters.

This is significant for a state that accounts for 80 percent of the nation’s lobster haul.

The best places to eat them are at lobster shacks, or casual outdoor pounds that boil lobsters on the spot. Diners eat alfresco by the coast, breathing in the sea-salted air and enjoying views of the horizon.

Take no prisoners when indulging in lobsters. Wear your plastic bibs and follow the instructions on your tray on how to ravage the crustacean – flesh, tomalley (lobster liver) and all. Dip the flesh in warm melted butter if desired.

In three days, we had eaten nine whole lobsters between us… and by then knew the anatomy of the lobster very intimately!

We also devoured awesome lobster rolls – mounts of cold, sweet flesh served on hot, crisp rolls. They were especially impressive at Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster, a favourite of George and Barbara Bush according to this New York Times article.

Note that lobster pounds start to close for the season by the second week of October. We really wanted to try the lobster rolls at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset, for example, but they had closed just a few days before our trip. Perhaps the first week of October is a good time to catch both lobster shacks and peak of fall foliage – if fall arrives on time.

5. Wild Blueberry pies & Popovers

Get me started on food and I can’t stop.

The last item in this list was a toss-up between outdoor activities – hiking, kayaking etc, all of which I’m a fan of – or more food.

I decided that the utility I got from the latter far beat the outdoor activities on this trip, partly because it was getting a little cold for the outdoors (and my body needed more blubber for the cold weather, as I rationalised). But yes, do the outdoor activities, which would then give you more reasons to binge on Maine courses.

Well, how good can blueberry pies be, I thought.

Apparently, really good. Many of the pies I’ve previously eaten taste ‘preserved’, but the wild blueberry pies I ate in Maine were bursting with fresh, plump and tasty goodness without the artificiality of added preservatives. I can’t rave enough about the freshness – and blueberries are pumped with anti-oxidants!

It shouldn’t be that surprising, as Maine produces 98 percent of the US’ wild blueberries and is the largest producer in the world.

We also sampled popovers for the first time at Jordan’s Pondhouse in Acadia National Park.

Light, fluffy, warm, buttery, almost creamy on the inside, these popovers really lived up to the hype.

So there, you’ve got my top-5 list. If it inspires a visit, or if you’ve got your own top-fives, be sure to share!

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Nov 20

24 Comments

Tonkotsu Ramen Base

15 hours.

In that time, you can catch up on much-needed sleep, clock in nearly two days’ worth of office hours, or fly from New York to London – and back.

Or you can slave over a boiling pot of tonkotsu ramen broth.

OK, so the fire was really the one flexing its muscles for 15 hours, while I cleared emails and pottered around the house. But many good hours of my life was certainly spent gazing into that magic pot, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the soup evolution.

I fell in love with tonkotsu ramen several years ago after my maiden encounter with its creamy broth in the winter cold, the perfect setting for piping hot soup. And since the first frost of the season has dawned upon us, it was time to try creating some of that collagen-y goodness.

I haven’t perfected the recipe for tonkotsu soup yet, but let me share some semblance of a solid base. Special shout-outs to Shizuoka Gourmet and No Recipes for inspiring this method.

Scroll down for pictures that chronicle the soupy evolution!

Ingredients
1 kg pork knuckles (or chunky leg bones), broken
500g chicken bones
1 bulb onion
1 bulb garlic
1 cup dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked
1 large carrot, sliced
4 sprigs scallions
Salt to taste

Method

1. Bring pot of water to a boil, then add pork knuckles. Boil till much scum comes out from the bones.

2. After 15 minutes, dump the gunky water. Scrub remaining scum off all the bones and rinse thoroughly.

3. Resume boiling pork knuckles with fresh batch of water, till scum no longer floats to surface.

4. At 3 Hours, add chicken bones, carrots, shiitake mushrooms.

Fry garlic and ginger till fragrant, and add to pot.

Fry onions till caramelised, and add to pot.

5. At 6 Hours, add scallions.

6. At 9 hours, watch the broth start to turn creamy!

7. At 12 hours, sigh in wonderment at the thickness of the broth.

8. At 15 hours, add salt to taste, and turn off the fire! Scoop out oil from the surface.

9. The tonkotsu base is ready! Now add your extra secret ingredients (I’m still figuring mine out) to complete the tonkotsu soup.

10. Serve with ramen noodles, beautifully molten-yolked eggs (recipe to come!), corn and char siew. The meat should have been Japanese cha siu, but I copped out and used some Chinese-style char siew I’d made earlier that week.

Presenting, the Grand Finale…

いただきます! (Itadakimasu!)

Homemade Char Siew (BBQ Pork)

Skewers of fatty pork roasted to slightly charred perfection, dripping with reduced sticky marinade.

This is the image conjured when I think of char siew, or homemade barbecued pork, possibly one of the Cantonese’s greatest contributions to mankind.

I like making char siew at home. Choose a good cut of pork and retain the juiciness and moisture of the meat, while charring it slightly on the outside.

And avoid the dry, scarily magenta-coloured variety hanging in the windows of some Chinese shopfronts. (Omit the colouring forever, people!)

For succulent and tender char siew, try this recipe.

Homemade Char Siew (BBQ Pork)
Simplified Version

Ingredients

1.5-2kg fatty pork collar (otherwise known as ‘pork shoulder’ or ‘pork shoulder butt’)
1- 1.5 cups coarse sugar
2 tbsp minced garlic
2 tbsp hoi sin sauce
1 tbsp chee hou sauce
1 tsp five-spice powder
1.5 tsp of rosewater wine (mui kwei lo) or 2 tbsp shao xing wine
1 tablespoon maltose and/or honey
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
White pepper to taste

Method

1. Cut pork collar into strips 4-5cm thick. Use a sharp knife, score the pork collar on the surface, just lightly so the marinate gets in.

2. Mix all ingredients (except honey and dark soy sauce) together, and marinate pork. Cover with cling wrap, set aside for 1-3 days.

3. Pat dry the pork to prevent the burning of sugar while cooking, and leave to room temperature.

4. Reduce the marinade carefully over a saucepan till syrupy. It should coat back of spatula, and should not burn. Add more hoisin sauce if necessary.

5. Set oven to grill and preheat oven to 210 degrees celcius (410 degrees farenheit).

6. Line a baking tray with aluminium foil. Put a metal steaming rack on it, and place pork on rack. Cover with foil albeit not too tightly, to ensure air gets in. This helps meat cook more slowly and evenly, somewhat like pot roasting. Cook for 15 minutes.

7. Remove the foil and baste with reduced marinade every 5 minutes. Turn and baste the other side, to render the fat nicely. Do this for about 20-30 minutes, or till just cooked. Do not overcook, or meat will dry out.

8. Towards the end, varnish meat with a mixture of honey and dark soya sauce.

Serves 6.

Serve char siew with rice or egg noodles. The recipe yields a large amount of meat. If not serving for a large group, you can eat part of the fresh batch, freeze the rest and savour it another day!

For the best results, use Kurobuta pork.

I’ve a more refined version that uses measurement of meat temperature to yield the very best results, but that’s Level 2 which we’ll save for another day. Thanks Stephen for the useful virtual tutorials on roasting meats!

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Oct 3

184 Comments

Yellowstone/Grand Teton: 5 Top Photo Spots

People tend to underestimate the magnitude of these parks, a friend said. And I was forewarned.

With just two-and-a-half days to explore both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, I was determined to shoot a good mix of wildlife and landscapes. After some research, I drew up a game-plan on how to photograph key attractions.

It was sure rewarding. Check out my top five favourite spots if you’re planning a visit!

1. Aerial View: Grand Prismatic Springs, Yellowstone

Where? Off Fairy Falls Trail, 400 feet (120m) up a steep, unmaintained mud-trail.

What? Visitors usually view Grand Prismatic Springs only from the main boardwalk, but up-close you do not enjoy a complete view of the huge spring. On a cold day, the entire area gets steamy, further obstructing the view and magnificent colours.

To get the best shot, make a trip to the Fairy Falls trail about a mile south. Hike for about half a mile and turn left onto a nondescript mud-trail on the side of a steep hill.

It takes wit, stamina and scrambling on fours over fallen logs to climb that hill, but do it and you will be rewarded by a resplendent aerial view of the entire spring.

When you are done breathing in the awesome view, zoom in to capture some abstract shots of the vibrant rims.

We sat there, mouths agape – okay, partly due to panting for me – at the breathtaking sight.

This was perhaps the best tip for our trip!

When to go? Go on a hot and sunny day. Chances are, it’s less steamy and the colours, most brilliant.

2. Wildlife Galore, Yellowstone

Where? Lamar Valley & Hayden Valley.

What? Not to be upstaged in Yellowstone is its animal kingdom. Although wildlife can be found roaming everywhere in Yellowstone, the best places to spot animals are Lamar Valley and Hayden Valley.

Known as the Serengeti of Yellowstone, Lamar Valley near the northeast entrance is a breathtakingly open landscape that is as attractive to wildlife as it is to visitors. Here, you may see herds of bisons and their calves, coyotes and pronghorns. Depending on the season, you may be lucky enough to spot bears.

Hayden Valley, somewhere along the east-central, is another great place to spot wildlife. We were thrilled to have spotted an elusive wolf pack using the scopes of canine enthusiasts, but the wolves were too far away to be photographed with my 300mm lens.

When to go? Go in the early mornings or late evenings, when it’s cooler and wildlife are out feeding.

3. Rutting Elk, Yellowstone

Where? Mammoth Hot Springs.

What? A large herd of elk congregate at the Mammoth Hot Springs area almost year-round. Watch out for them against the backdrop of the beautiful Lower Terrace area, or simply hang around the lawns of the lodges. Rangers told us the elk seemed to prefer the fresh green grass of manicured lawns, and they knew no fear of people.

September is prime rutting season for elk, with their antlers fully grown. Listen for bulls bugling and herding their harems in the most territorial fashion. The males are extremely aggressive this season, and you may even spot bull-fights.

When to go? Fall is a spectacular time for watching wildlife here. Early mornings and late evenings are best, but elk are typically spotted throughout the day.

4. Mirror Images of Grand Tetons

Where? Schwabacher Landing & Oxbow Bend

What? Other mountains may be higher and larger, but there’s an unparalleled beauty to the ruggedness of Grand Tetons. The Grand Teton range rises steeply from the valley floor, and as if it needed more drama, the towering pinnacles have their images reflected on still waters in the foreground.

About five miles from Moose Junction along Hwy 26/89/191, we discovered a little gravel road called the Schwabacher landing. It’s not paved and your ride will be far from smooth, but drive slowly and you’ll come to part of the Snake River that proudly displays a reflection of the Cathedral group of mountains. A real prime photo opportunity!

Less off-the-beaten-path is the famous Oxbow bend, which shows off a mirror image of Mt Moran and its surrounding peaks.

When to go? Sunrise or sunset. The warm colours of the sun over the horizon simply does magic for photography.

5. Mormon Barns, Grand Tetons

Where? Off Antelope Flats Road, about 1 mile east of Hwy 26/89/191

What? The Mormon Row is one of the most picturesque, postcard-worthy area of Grand Teton National Park.

How much more rustic can the scene get with old wooden homesteads amidst open fields, set against a dazzling backdrop of the Tetons?

The farmland here was first homesteaded by Mormon settlers in the early 1900s. The buildings were left to decay till 1990s, when the cultural value was finally recognised and steps were taken for preservation. Thankfully!

When to go? Sunrise is best, as the sun’s rays illuminate the side of the barns and fall on the mountains in the background.

Have fun with these tips… Hopefully, they can yield you a stunning portfolio of abstract geothermal, wildlife and landscape shots!

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Sep 26

17 Comments

Bacteria, what a Beauty

Extremophiles.

I had the opportunity to witness these microscopic things in action when I visited Yellowstone National Park last week.

They are a form of thermophilic bacteria that thrive in very high temperatures of mineral-rich waters.

Often these organisms are coloured, due to photosynthetic pigments. Different species thrive in various temperature ranges, causing the brilliant colour gradations in the hot springs of Yellowstone.

Grand Prismatic Spring, as pictured above, is perhaps Nature’s magnum opus.

Now, who says bacteria can’t be beautiful?

(That said, I’m trying to shake off the annoying variety that is causing a drippy nose.)

I’ll be back on the radar with more updates soon!

Comments

8 Ways to Enjoy Jamaica

Freshly Pressed!

5 Reasons to Fall for Maine

Tonkotsu Ramen Base

Homemade Char Siew (BBQ Pork)

Yellowstone/Grand Teton: 5 Top Photo Spots

Bacteria, what a Beauty

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