Posts tagged ‘Travel’

May 16

8 Ways to Enjoy Jamaica

A Caribbean getaway, our first foray onto the South American continent, many teary farewells, a cosy New Year’s party in Manhattan, our big move back to Asia, re-joining the corporate workforce… and a new exciting – HUGE – project that is now underway.

That sums up our last five months or so in a nutshell. It’s been a whirlwind – thus the radio silence – but we’re grateful for everything that has happened. What an end to 2011, and a momentous kick-off to the new (ok, by now not-so-new) year!

We have no major vacays in the pipelines, but I’m not planning to cease last year’s overarching theme of wanderlust.

And I can’t think of a better destination to get the cogs turning again than spirited Jamaica, which we visited late last year.

Initially, it was difficult to shake off the mental image of a shady, crime-filled city, with people lurking at corners trying to sell you ganja or assaulting the hapless at knifepoint. After all, it was consistently rated as a country with one of the highest murder rates in the world.

But there was something extremely alluring about its beauty, sunshine and sea, and most importantly the people. Nowhere else in the Caribbean is the African vibe so predominant. Beyond idyllic sights of swaying palm trees and powder-white sand – some other Caribbean destinations might offer even more in this respect – we wanted to soak in the culture of the people, and there was lots of it, with some spunk and attitude thrown in as well.

So we took precaution, exercised loads of common sense, and were determined to scratch beneath the surface.

Here were some of our favourite activities in Jamaica.

1. Go Cliff Diving

There’s something inspiring about watching lithe and supple Jamaicans scale rocky cliffs and dive dramatically into the crystal-clear waters below.

You’ll feel geared up to try it, or in my case, goad the husband to do it.

A good place to try this is by the famous Rick’s Cafe, also a great place to watch the sunset. Beginners can try mounting lower levels before incrementally demonstrating more bravado.

Note there will be stuntmen touters who expect a tip from their ‘audience’, but you’ll get used to it after a while.

2. Be a Beach Bum, Soak in Reggae at Negril

If you’ve been longing to lounge around on powder-white sand and frolic in the turquoise Caribbean sea, Negril is the place to be.

There are plenty of beach-side bars and cafes to pop into, many blasting Bob Marley music so you can soak up the reggae atmosphere and bob your head to the beat. In or out of the water.

Much of the seven-mile beach hardly offers respite from the tourist hustle and bustle, but some will enjoy the fun and vibrancy of the place. If you’re looking for some peace and quiet, take a romantic stroll down to the south-westernmost tip where there are usually more Jamaicans than tourists.

3. Ride a Horse into the Sea

It is the dream of many to ride a horse by the pristine shoreline fringed by gently lapping waves. Honeymooners in particular will find this very romantic.

In Jamaica (and many Caribbean destinations) you can go horse-back riding through lush plantations, by the beach and if you’re up to it, right into the sea.

4. Visit the Coolest Bar in the World

It’s called the Pelican Bar, opened by fisherman Floyde Forbes. And no, I didn’t bestow on it the ‘coolest bar’ accolade; The Guardian (no less) did it.

To get there, you take a rickety old boat from the beach. And just as you’re wondering where you headed – without a lifevest – you heave a sigh of relief as you spot a wooden shack built on stilts on a sandbank in the middle of the sea.

Pelicans fly around those stilts and, if you’re fortunate as some were just hours before we arrived, see dolphins playing in the distance.

Here, you can chill out over a Red Stripe beer and music, and when hunger sets in order a freshly-caught fried fish or diced lobster over rice.

No frills at all – it’s all very rustic.

5. Eat Jerk Chicken

Jerk is a native Jamaican style of cooking where a hot spice rub – including pimento and Scotch bonnet peppers – is applied over meat that is grilled over hardwood charcoal.

We really liked the flavoursome and juicy jerk chicken served at Scotchies along the north coast, famed for dishing out authentic jerk dishes.

Absolutely delicious!

6. See Wild Crocodiles in Black River

Come face to face with wild crocodiles on a safari tour along Black River, Jamaica’s longest navigable river and largest wetland area.

Sightings of endangered saltwater crocodiles are frequent, and we saw two on our trip. It was somewhat thrilling to have these wild creatures gliding towards your boat as the guide made cawing noises to attract them.

7. Get Drunk on Rum

Okay, not necessarily drunk… but that surely got your attention?

Given that the Caribbean is somewhat the epicenter of the world’s rum production, visiting a rum estate is pretty worth it.

In Jamaica, visit the Appleton estate and witness the distillation process of rum.

Of course, the favourite part for most people is the rum sampling of 16 whole varieties of rum (try the rum cream!), and buy bottles at a supposedly good rates at the gift shop.

8. Get to Know the Locals (FAVE!)

If you’re still reading this article, congrats for coming to my absolute favourite part of the trip – going beneath the touristy surface and making a point to interact with the locals.

We wanted to avoid being herded around in tourist buses, and had hired a local driver to take us around each day based on our interests. This was a great decision, because it freed us from stresses of driving in road conditions that were more, well, foolhardy than we were used to, while allowing us the freedom of exploring at our own pace. Our guide also acted as some form of security as people saw we were accompanied by a local at all times.

F-3Ingle-Shop

We were blessed to have established a great rapport with our driver.

When we shared our interest to see how the locals really lived, he took us on our third day to his neighbourhood where we ate with his family and neighbours, played ball with kids, entered little provision shops attached to homes and visited the local markets – hardly an itinerary travellers ask for, he said.

F-Ingle-LeonHouseBoys

This was hands-down the best part of our trip.

From our interactions, Jamaicans can be so aggressively forthright and blatantly opinionated… but they can be awesomely laid back, passionate and kind all at the same time.

Really, you can like Jamaica for its beauty, reggae, sun, sand and sea… but above all, we loved it for its spirit!

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Nov 27

23 Comments

5 Reasons to Fall for Maine

It’s easy to see why Maine is dubbed the ‘Vacation State’.

It offers breathtaking scenery, outdoor activities and quaint architecture that transposes you into a world of relaxation.

Its culinary delights are definitely worth mentioning, evident from the flourishing farmer’s markets, famed seafood industry, and increasing number of culinary extraordinaires.

Lest I wax lyrical for hours, let me keep it concise. Here are my top five quintessentially Maine experiences!

1. Spectacular Fall Foliage

Maine is marketed as an all-season destination, but in my opinion it’s in fall that it really dazzles.

Nature is a flamboyant exhibitionist during fall in the otherwise low-key New England state.

There’s something wonderful about the crisp air and brilliantly-coloured maples against the backdrop of jagged coastlines and pristine highlands.

The vivid colours of scarlet, orange and yellow appear as early as mid-September in the north, and as late as end-October in the south. This year, the peak of fall was at least a week late when we visited but the hues were still a breathtaking sight!

Some hotels charge a fall surcharge of more than $10. But the canopy of colours form a sight that may be worth paying for.

And you know it’s practically a commodity when there are foliage websites and hotlines for visitors to track the changing hues.

2. Romantic Lighthouses along Coast

Over 60 historical lighthouses dot the rocky coast of Maine.

These lighthouses were built since 1974 as beacons of light for ships to navigate complicated peninsulas of the Maine coast.

With the advent of GPS technology, lighthouses don’t carry the same burden today.

Nonetheless, they still embody the nostalgia and mission of yesteryears.

If you are driving north from Portland towards Bar Harbor, be sure to stop by some lighthouses along the way, such as the above-pictured Portland Head Lighthouse at Cape Elizabeth.

3. First to Witness Sunrise in USA

Go to Cadillac Mountain before the break of dawn in fall and winter, and declare yourself as first in the USA to view sunrise that day.

Cadillac Mountain is situated within Acadia National Park – a must-see in Maine – and hosts the highest point of the North Atlantic Seaboard.

Or if you’re dorky like us, go at sunset too and take some awesome silhouette pictures.

Fellow travellers saw what we were doing and asked for help to capture their silhouette moments too, as pictured here!

4. Lobsters Feasts

There’s more to fall than foliage – it’s also prime season for lobsters.

This is significant for a state that accounts for 80 percent of the nation’s lobster haul.

The best places to eat them are at lobster shacks, or casual outdoor pounds that boil lobsters on the spot. Diners eat alfresco by the coast, breathing in the sea-salted air and enjoying views of the horizon.

Take no prisoners when indulging in lobsters. Wear your plastic bibs and follow the instructions on your tray on how to ravage the crustacean – flesh, tomalley (lobster liver) and all. Dip the flesh in warm melted butter if desired.

In three days, we had eaten nine whole lobsters between us… and by then knew the anatomy of the lobster very intimately!

We also devoured awesome lobster rolls – mounts of cold, sweet flesh served on hot, crisp rolls. They were especially impressive at Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster, a favourite of George and Barbara Bush according to this New York Times article.

Note that lobster pounds start to close for the season by the second week of October. We really wanted to try the lobster rolls at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset, for example, but they had closed just a few days before our trip. Perhaps the first week of October is a good time to catch both lobster shacks and peak of fall foliage – if fall arrives on time.

5. Wild Blueberry pies & Popovers

Get me started on food and I can’t stop.

The last item in this list was a toss-up between outdoor activities – hiking, kayaking etc, all of which I’m a fan of – or more food.

I decided that the utility I got from the latter far beat the outdoor activities on this trip, partly because it was getting a little cold for the outdoors (and my body needed more blubber for the cold weather, as I rationalised). But yes, do the outdoor activities, which would then give you more reasons to binge on Maine courses.

Well, how good can blueberry pies be, I thought.

Apparently, really good. Many of the pies I’ve previously eaten taste ‘preserved’, but the wild blueberry pies I ate in Maine were bursting with fresh, plump and tasty goodness without the artificiality of added preservatives. I can’t rave enough about the freshness – and blueberries are pumped with anti-oxidants!

It shouldn’t be that surprising, as Maine produces 98 percent of the US’ wild blueberries and is the largest producer in the world.

We also sampled popovers for the first time at Jordan’s Pondhouse in Acadia National Park.

Light, fluffy, warm, buttery, almost creamy on the inside, these popovers really lived up to the hype.

So there, you’ve got my top-5 list. If it inspires a visit, or if you’ve got your own top-fives, be sure to share!

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Oct 3

184 Comments

Yellowstone/Grand Teton: 5 Top Photo Spots

People tend to underestimate the magnitude of these parks, a friend said. And I was forewarned.

With just two-and-a-half days to explore both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, I was determined to shoot a good mix of wildlife and landscapes. After some research, I drew up a game-plan on how to photograph key attractions.

It was sure rewarding. Check out my top five favourite spots if you’re planning a visit!

1. Aerial View: Grand Prismatic Springs, Yellowstone

Where? Off Fairy Falls Trail, 400 feet (120m) up a steep, unmaintained mud-trail.

What? Visitors usually view Grand Prismatic Springs only from the main boardwalk, but up-close you do not enjoy a complete view of the huge spring. On a cold day, the entire area gets steamy, further obstructing the view and magnificent colours.

To get the best shot, make a trip to the Fairy Falls trail about a mile south. Hike for about half a mile and turn left onto a nondescript mud-trail on the side of a steep hill.

It takes wit, stamina and scrambling on fours over fallen logs to climb that hill, but do it and you will be rewarded by a resplendent aerial view of the entire spring.

When you are done breathing in the awesome view, zoom in to capture some abstract shots of the vibrant rims.

We sat there, mouths agape – okay, partly due to panting for me – at the breathtaking sight.

This was perhaps the best tip for our trip!

When to go? Go on a hot and sunny day. Chances are, it’s less steamy and the colours, most brilliant.

2. Wildlife Galore, Yellowstone

Where? Lamar Valley & Hayden Valley.

What? Not to be upstaged in Yellowstone is its animal kingdom. Although wildlife can be found roaming everywhere in Yellowstone, the best places to spot animals are Lamar Valley and Hayden Valley.

Known as the Serengeti of Yellowstone, Lamar Valley near the northeast entrance is a breathtakingly open landscape that is as attractive to wildlife as it is to visitors. Here, you may see herds of bisons and their calves, coyotes and pronghorns. Depending on the season, you may be lucky enough to spot bears.

Hayden Valley, somewhere along the east-central, is another great place to spot wildlife. We were thrilled to have spotted an elusive wolf pack using the scopes of canine enthusiasts, but the wolves were too far away to be photographed with my 300mm lens.

When to go? Go in the early mornings or late evenings, when it’s cooler and wildlife are out feeding.

3. Rutting Elk, Yellowstone

Where? Mammoth Hot Springs.

What? A large herd of elk congregate at the Mammoth Hot Springs area almost year-round. Watch out for them against the backdrop of the beautiful Lower Terrace area, or simply hang around the lawns of the lodges. Rangers told us the elk seemed to prefer the fresh green grass of manicured lawns, and they knew no fear of people.

September is prime rutting season for elk, with their antlers fully grown. Listen for bulls bugling and herding their harems in the most territorial fashion. The males are extremely aggressive this season, and you may even spot bull-fights.

When to go? Fall is a spectacular time for watching wildlife here. Early mornings and late evenings are best, but elk are typically spotted throughout the day.

4. Mirror Images of Grand Tetons

Where? Schwabacher Landing & Oxbow Bend

What? Other mountains may be higher and larger, but there’s an unparalleled beauty to the ruggedness of Grand Tetons. The Grand Teton range rises steeply from the valley floor, and as if it needed more drama, the towering pinnacles have their images reflected on still waters in the foreground.

About five miles from Moose Junction along Hwy 26/89/191, we discovered a little gravel road called the Schwabacher landing. It’s not paved and your ride will be far from smooth, but drive slowly and you’ll come to part of the Snake River that proudly displays a reflection of the Cathedral group of mountains. A real prime photo opportunity!

Less off-the-beaten-path is the famous Oxbow bend, which shows off a mirror image of Mt Moran and its surrounding peaks.

When to go? Sunrise or sunset. The warm colours of the sun over the horizon simply does magic for photography.

5. Mormon Barns, Grand Tetons

Where? Off Antelope Flats Road, about 1 mile east of Hwy 26/89/191

What? The Mormon Row is one of the most picturesque, postcard-worthy area of Grand Teton National Park.

How much more rustic can the scene get with old wooden homesteads amidst open fields, set against a dazzling backdrop of the Tetons?

The farmland here was first homesteaded by Mormon settlers in the early 1900s. The buildings were left to decay till 1990s, when the cultural value was finally recognised and steps were taken for preservation. Thankfully!

When to go? Sunrise is best, as the sun’s rays illuminate the side of the barns and fall on the mountains in the background.

Have fun with these tips… Hopefully, they can yield you a stunning portfolio of abstract geothermal, wildlife and landscape shots!

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Sep 26

17 Comments

Bacteria, what a Beauty

Extremophiles.

I had the opportunity to witness these microscopic things in action when I visited Yellowstone National Park last week.

They are a form of thermophilic bacteria that thrive in very high temperatures of mineral-rich waters.

Often these organisms are coloured, due to photosynthetic pigments. Different species thrive in various temperature ranges, causing the brilliant colour gradations in the hot springs of Yellowstone.

Grand Prismatic Spring, as pictured above, is perhaps Nature’s magnum opus.

Now, who says bacteria can’t be beautiful?

(That said, I’m trying to shake off the annoying variety that is causing a drippy nose.)

I’ll be back on the radar with more updates soon!

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Sep 4

12 Comments

The Plain People

As we approached, a horse-drawn buggy appeared on the opposite side of the road, helmed by a bearded man in plain clothing and suspenders.

The air seemed to turn crisper those few miles, and the surroundings, more serene.

We were stepping back in time.

It was our maiden trip to Jamesport, Missouri, which houses the largest Amish community west of the Mississippi River.

Known for their simple living, plain dressing and eschewal of modern technology, the Old Order Amish are direct descendants of Swiss Mennonite Anabaptists who emigrated to America seeking religious freedom and good farmland.

Today, the Amish still drive horses and buggies. They avoid the use of electricity and cars, to evade temptation into ‘the ways of the world’.

We were touring with Jim Smith who grew up and went to school with the Amish, offering us plenty of ‘insider’ knowledge and even rare access into one of the Amish homes.

I asked Jim if we could take pictures.

He explained that the Amish cannot pose for photographs, forbidden by their literal interpretation of creating a “graven image” in the Bible. However, we could snap general pictures in which they were not recognisable, which explains all the back- or side-view shots.

We visited the home of an Amish family with eight children. Yes, eight. A typical Amish family has an average of seven to ten children.

The home was very simply furnished. Without electricity, they used propane gas to power their refrigerator, lights and heating facility.

There was no air-conditioner – a must-have today for many Missourians, given the summers of over 100 degrees Farenheit (40 degrees Celcius).

The elderly Amish cheerily explained that they would go to the basement or the porch where it was cooler. (Come to think of it, just 100 years ago, there weren’t air-conditioners either, and our ancestors survived well in those times, yes?)

Wow, no telephones at home, my friend remarked, and asked in jest with obvious reference to my chatty persona, Would you be able to survive that?

I laughed, Don’t mention telephones; I’m not sure I can survive without wifi for a day!

To be clear, a handful of telephone booths are scattered among the fields, a rare break between tradition and technology. Five families share a telephone booth which the elders have allowed to facilitate business with the outside world.

Jim explained that the young and old work side by side in the farms, and aim to specialise in a trade such as woodwork and furniture. Working for a family goal, they pass on skills from generation to generation.

Furniture, quilts, baskets, jams and other foods that we saw at the various country shops displayed impeccable craftsmanship and quality. Having attempted to make a quilt myself this year, my eyes gravitated to the collection of quilts on sale. They were very pretty.

Amish women spend their days working in a kitchen and caring for young children and domestic affairs.

Children are educated up to the eighth grade, beyond which education is considered more harmful than helpful. Classes are taught by an unmarried girl, in a tiny one-room school.

At around age 16, teenagers go through a phase called rumspringa, when they are allowed to engage in activities of the ‘English’ (what Amish people call non-Amish) for around two to four years.

This helps them make an informed decision on whether to officially join the Amish community.

During this period, they take their buggies out to town and experience what other American teenagers do.

One is never born an Amish, Jim explained, he or she is only born a child of an Amish. To his knowledge, most teenagers still eventually choose to devote their lives to the ways of the Amish.

He also made it clear that the Amish do not evangelise and seek to add outsiders to their church. They are happy with leading their lives quietly, and never expect people to join them.

Most people visit Amish communities to see what they may be missing out, with just an eight-grade education and lack of technology.

But looking at their simplicity of lifestyle, you leave with images of content smiles plastered in your mind.

You cannot help but leave wondering if we would appreciate life far more, without the distractions of modern technology.

Or if families would be more tightly-knit, without the noise from television, internet games and incessant emails on our Blackberries.

Hmmm. I ponder.

Now please excuse me for a moment while I use high-speed wireless internet to publish this post.

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Aug 22

8 Comments

Call to the Wild

If magnificent glaciers, spectacular wildlife and grand mountain vistas sound like your ideal setting for a getaway, you’ll need to etch a trip to Alaska on your travel bucket list now.

With scenes straight out of the Discovery Channel, Alaska is a sanctuary of untamed splendour for those who want to get away from the daily grind of city life.

Armed with layers of clothing, trusty binoculars and telephoto lenses, we made the trip to Alaska early this summer.

And it was quite the trip of a lifetime.

To see a multitude of natural land and seascapes, we visited the Interior, South-central and Inside Passage of Alaska, which together offered a perfect land-and-sea vacation.

First up was Denali National Park, the crown jewel of America’s national park system and highlight of Alaska’s Interior region.

Discovering Denali

As the United States’ first wildlife sanctuary established in 1917, Denali National Park was set aside to protect the abundant wildlife species residing in the park.

In the early days, visitors travelled from afar to experience a touch of unspoiled wildlife and majestic scenery.

90 years on, nothing has changed.

From the moment we approached the reserve in our car along George Parks Highway, we felt tiny in the grand arena of snow-capped mountain peaks (in summer, no less), massive expanse of forests, thawing tundra and blossoming wildflowers.

In the distance stood the honored Mt McKinley, a mountaineer’s dream and the highest peak in North America, one that reaches a staggering 20,320 feet.

As if it were not enigmatic enough, the mountain is only fully visible one out of three days and shrouded in a mystical veil of clouds the rest of the time.

For us, Mt McKinley was partially obscured by significant cloud cover during the days we were in Denali. This did nothing to dampen our mood but added to the aura and beauty of the place.

In fact, the cloudy skies were a boon to our wildlife spotting attempts, as the animals proved to be more active in cooler weather.

To explore the reserve, you journey on park-run buses along the Denali Park Road, which parallels the Alaskan mountain ranges. Driving is disallowed.

The shuttle buses allows you to disembark and re-board anywhere along the road, which means you can experience the wildlife sanctuary on your own terms.

And so the fun starts.

Aboard the shuttle bus, passengers act as extra eyes of the driver.

On our trip, the eagle-eyed Sherlocks among us would frequently shout “Stop!” whenever wildlife was spotted, rendering the full-day road-trip deep into the wild extremely eventful.

You need not wait long before animals appear.

Within fifteen minutes of the journey, our bus came to a complete stop.

Majestically trotting across the road right ahead of us were two wild moose, as if to stop us to remind that this park was, indeed, theirs.

Minutes later, a teenager yelped and our eyes rested on a community of grizzly bears. Several meters away from a massive grizzly that was fast asleep was an adorable cub, learning to forage for its own food.

A symphony of cameras shutters went off – those ranging from cute point-and-shoots to heavy duty ones mounted with professional white lenses – often the only sounds in the stillness of the park.

In all, we spotted four of the iconic “big five”– moose, bears, dall sheep and wolves. Outstanding was the caribou, otherwise known as the reindeer, popularised by the Santa Claus legend.

But we knew it was not a zoo; it was a treasure trove of wilderness waiting to be slowly uncovered, and wildlife sightings were never guaranteed. Go with this mindset, and you will be amazed.

The Eielsen Visitor Center, located 106km into the park, is an excellent place to learn about the natural resources of the area. Rangers take groups on guided walks that focused on the flora in the area.

Denali National Park is an absolute hiker’s paradise, unfettered by well-established trails and bush aids commonly found in many destinations.

As rangers explained, it is the park’s philosophy that the most complete experience would be created through unstructured exploring.

To be sure, there are several short trails that act as handy stepping-stones for those less accustomed to hiking, such as the Savage River trail.

If you are game for more adventure, create your own route and explore the splendid tundra forests or forge the banks of bubbling rivers. If you dare, you can even attempt to make it to the top of glaciers.

There is literally no limit to where you can hike.

Park rangers issue tips on how to manage bear sightings during hikes. Always make your presence known, they say, hike in groups and make noise to prevent shocking a bear into provocation.

We didn’t encounter grizzlies up-close on our hikes – till now I can’t quite decide that was our fortune or not – although we saw many of park’s smaller but no less fascinating creatures.

Friendly marmots literally posed for the cameras, and gulls vainly fluffed their feathers akin models in a couture fashion show. The ptarmigan – the Alaskan state bird – displayed key lessons on camouflage, as its feathers turn from brown to white in the winter.

Back at the Denali’s Visitor Centre, sled-dog demonstrations were available, and the Alaskan huskies stole the hearts of many dog-lovers.

These are the same resilient sled-dogs that traverse the backcountry in the heart of winter, when roads are blanketed with impenetrable layers of snow.

Denali National Park was really a great start to the Alaska trip. It’s definitely a must-see destination within Alaska!

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Aug 22

16 Comments

Numero Uno

Hello! I’m Nise.

I love photography, drawing, travelling, cooking, writing and reading. I like to play the guitar – maybe to the ire of my neighbours – and pretend to watch intelligent TV programmes when, really, Project Runway is playing.

Currently, I’m very blessed to be in the US on a gap year away from work.

Theoretically, this gives me plenty of time to do many things. Like hone those fledgling photography skills. Traverse the Americas. Learn a foreign language. Cook and bake a lot more. Revive a blog. And maybe even sew an entire quilt (although, in my defence I can’t quite continue if I can’t find that thimble, right?).

Ah… so much to do. All this, while trying to downplay the ‘husband works, I play’ bit.

What’s the blog about?

Nise en Scène is a play on the word ‘mise en scène’, which loosely refers to the artistic elements of a scene in theatre or film.

Nise en Scène the blog is all about capturing the beauty of travel, photography, food, art, and life.

And when merrymaking ends, it will uncover a way to find joy amidst the humdrum of life.

For a start, check out my new posts on Denali National Park and Sailing the Inside Passage of Alaska.

For readers of my old, now-defunct blog, you’ll find some of the previous posts familiar. All posts prior to this one – yes, and some really old – are given a new lease of life here.

I’m also still experimenting with the design of this blog, so you may see slight changes along the way.

Stick around, and watch Nise en Scène evolve!

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Mar 11

7 Comments

Sushi to Dai for

Brace yourselves. If you’re a sushi aficionado, you’ll likely feel ravenous after this post on our most gratifying meal in Japan.

In our twenty-something years, we’ve sampled plenty of good food. But this meal I’m about to talk about was one of our favourites in the world, ever.

Let’s go back to around the ides of February, when the Man and I headed to the legendary Tsukiji Market for breakfast.

Going to Tsukiji Market is like some sort of a sushi pilgrimage for fans. It’s the largest wholesale fish market globally, and you can ogle at the freshest of seafoods that will soon find themselves on sashimi platters around the region.

After a stroll around the market, we hunted down the most famous eatery situated at Row 6, the illustrious Sushi Dai.

It’s only the most famous shop that is celebrated in almost every guidebook, from the chi-chi Luxe Guides to pragmatic Lonely Planet on a Shoestring.

No surprises, then, that there was a snaking queue that started at the storefront, branching out of the alley onto the sidewalk. A harbinger of the fact that we’d be waiting a lonnnng time.

First half of line

Second half of line

But persistent we were, focussed and unflinching in our quest to taste what could be the best sushi we’ve ever had.

So we waited. And waited. In the chilly weather.

After 2 and a half hours, I trembled with elation when stepped into the eatery – although, thinking back, it could have been a fainting spell from the hunger.

Sushi Dai is just slightly larger than the size of my kitchen, fitting only 15 people huddled shoulder-to-shoulder at the tight bar counter.

The ambience was cosy and warm, enhanced by the enthusiasm of the itamae (or chefs) who greet you loudly when you enter.

Serving plates were non-existent, and guests ate directly from a ledge at the bar counter. How quaint.

Order the lovely Omakase Seto, or the ‘Trust the Chef’ course, and the itamae serves ten nigiri sushi of his choice, including otoro (fatty tuna belly), plus 1 extra nigiri of your selection, at 3,900yen.

If you’re a small eater and otoro is not a must, you can consider the Jyou Seto, or standard course, which comprises 7 pieces of nigiri, at 2,500yen.

There isn’t much left to say except that the sushi was oh so fresh.

And it’s time to let the pictures do the talking. So, here’s presenting… the stars of Sushi Dai!

Warm tamago (sweet egg)
- a basic done perfectly well to kick off the meal

Otoro (fatty tuna belly)

Chutoro (semi-fatty tuna belly)

Aji (mackerel)
- a potentially fishy type, but this was the very freshest I’ve ever tasted

Nama Shirasu (white bait)

Uni (sea urchin)

Magurozuke (marinated tuna)

Shiraebi (baby shrimp)

Sake (salmon)

Akagai (red clam)
- this was still moving when he served us! Very dramatic.
The husband was blown away by its sweetness.

Anago (simmered sea eel)
- this was a show-stopper. The flesh was plump yet tender,
very juicy and beautifully done.

We also had other seasonal fish…

… sushi rolls, and piping-hot miso soup with fish bits at the end.

It was nearly noon so breakfast had morphed into brunch.

I wanted to cry at the end of the meal because I was getting full, but didn’t want the magic to end.

Every item was exceedingly fresh, with the source just steps away from the eatery. It may not have been the classiest, but it was really one of our best food experiences.

Whether other eateries in Tsukiji are just as good, this I’ve asked friends who live in Japan or travel there often.

I get varied responses, but many say there are hit-and-miss shops so exercise discernment if time is limited.

I hear Daiwa Sushi, just a few doors away with the second longest line, offers quite a good deal too, and perhaps we’ll try that someday.

But for now, I’d say, if you’re willing to queue patiently in Tsukiji, choose the most famous restaurant with the infamous queue.

The sushi is truly to dai for.

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